From Pisco: Combis run from Pisco to Paracas (via Chaco) and go as far as the Hilton, about 300 meters (1,000 ft) from the Reserva Nacional de Paracas entry, passing by the Posada del Emancipador and Hotel Paracas. The combis operate from 6 a.m.-6 p.m. (Pisco-Chaco $0.75, Chaco-Paracas $0.50). Shared taxis run more frequently between Paracas and Pisco ($1.25-$2). A taxi from the Pisco highway turn-off direct to Paracas costs $7-9 (up to 4 passengers). A taxi from Playa Chaco to the Hilton costs $2-5.
Two of Peru’s best companies have depots in Paracas: Cruz del Sur (daily 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Behind Hotel Zarcillo Paradise, across from the El Mirador monument. Tel: 53-6636) and Oltursa (daily 4-8 p.m. Hotel Refugio del Pirata, Av, Paracas, Manzana D, Lote 6. Tel: 54-5054).
To Lima (4 hrs): Cruz del Sur (5 buses between 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m., $20-24); Oltursa (buses at 10 a.m. and 11 p.m., $20).
To Ica (1 hr): Cruz del Sur (5 buses between 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., $7.50. Buses to Arequipa also stop at Ica.
To Nasca (3.5 hrs): Cruz del Sur (5 buses between 7.30 a.m.-5.30 p.m., $11). Buses to Arequipa also stop at Nasca.
To Arequipa (12 hrs): Cruz del Sur (10 a.m., $38-53); Oltursa (11 a.m., $32)
Desert Travel has a direct Paracas to Huacachina service in a 14-person minivan (11 a.m., 1.5 hours, $10). The service is tremendously popular; reservations must be made by phone the night before or before 8 a.m. the same day of travel. Ca. Lima 171, Plaza de Armas, Ica. Tel: 227-215, Cel: 956-601-576/ 956-703-554, E-mail: desert_travel@hotmail.com, URL: www.deserttravelica.com).
Upon re-declaring her independence at age 29, Lorraine Caputo packed her trusty Rocinante (so her knapsack's called) and began...
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